Alpine School Mountain Guides Arco Lake Garda Dolomites
mail: @via.ferrata.co.uk - Tel+390464394224
Crossing from North to South of Brenta Dolomites in Italy, from hut to hut, on the via ferrata Bocchette
Welcome to the via ferratas in the Dolomites !!!
The variety of colors, the shapes of the limestone rocks and walls are unique in the world. Pinnacles and amazing walls alternate with colorful green valleys full of forests, meadows, torrents and canyons with huge waterfalls. The dense presence of mountain lodges in the central part of the mountain chain (one every 2/3 hours walk) does not disturb the environment. The Northern part is wilder and has many "malghe" (shelters for the cows). The number of alpinists of the Dolomites Trentino has decreased in the last years: the alpinists or rock climbers now prefer the more comfortable crags in the valleys, and the tourists prefer a short hike to the first lodge other than an adventure on the difficult paths in the Brenta Dolomites. Who remains on the walls are only the lovers of iron paths because here is their Kingdom. The layer conformation of the rocks permits the access to the many ledges they cut the big walls trasversally. On these ledges run the vie ferrate delle Bocchette, from one pass to another and from lodge to lodge, across the entire Group.
Grandpa tied with his grandson on the "Bocchette Centrali", it seems a fairy tale of the old times
Everyone visiting the Alps must have some prior mountaineering experience, a firm step and a good physical condition are prerequisites. The via ferrata delle Bocchette is completely different to the "sports" routes in the valleys. This is why we speak of real mountaineering. In many parts of the routes the cable is not present (impossible to anchor on the rocks) therefore it some rock climbing experience is necessary. Sometimes the use of the rope is indispensable, especially at the beginning of the season, to belay crossing of grooves or frozen sections.
The offer of the Alpine mountaineering School Arco consists of the Crossing of Brenta Group from North to the South in five or three days on vie ferrate Bocchette centrali or alte, with overnight in the mountain lodges.
The amazing landscape from Rifugio Tuckett, the starting point for Bocchette alte
1st day - We meet in Madonna di Campiglio (or to be agreed upon) from where we proceed by car to the starting point in Vallesinella (1.513 m) where we can park our vehicle. From here we climb up a steep mountain trail in the forest passing by Rifugio Casinei and following up to the famous Rifugio Tuckett (2.270 m). As we are spending our first night here, it is convenient to deposit some of our belongings at the mountain lodge, things which are not necessary to be taken on our today's round trip. After a short break we can start with a much lighter backpack our ascent to the Bocca di Tuckett (2.648 m) over a quite ripid snow slope which during some times in the season is even icy. Depending on the conditions we might have to put on our crampons to facilitate the climb up to the route. Once reached Bocca di Tuckett we turn North and partially proceed on some iron ladders of Sentiero Benini (Bocchette Alte) which is of medium difficulty. After a short break we are preparing for the descend along the many narrow and exposed paths of the "Sentiero Dallagiacoma" towards Rifugio Tuckett where we are spending our first night - walking time: about 6/7 hours from Vallesinella, including rests and slow pace (depending on the fitness of the participants and weather conditions).
2nd day - Early start in the morning from Rifugio Tuckett traversing narrow mountain paths some equipped with iron ropes leading us to the starting point of "Sentiero Sosat" (from here one could proceed on the Bochette Alte but for this kind of trip more mountaineering experience and use of crampons are necessary. The sentiero Sosat is easy and scenic with stunning views over the entire Adamello Glacier Park. As the trail has been renovated just recently, the only difficulty which used to be the famous vertical ladder of 30 metres, the longest of the Brenta Group, is now no longer in use and has been replaced by iron pegs on the side of the ladder. Our mountain guides have the possibility to belay the participants on the rope). We continue our climb on airy mountain paths partially equipped with short iron ladders. At Rifugio Brentei (2.182 m) we will have a lunch break. Proceeding on alpine mountain trails some of which are equipped with iron cables and crossing of a snowfield we will reach Rifugio Pedrotti (2.491 m) where we will spend our second night. After a good rest we proceed with the ascent to Rifugio Pedrotti. - total walking time ca. 6 hours (depending on the fitness of the participants and weather conditions).
3rd day - After the night on Rifugio Pedrotti we climb up to Bocca di Brenta (2.552 m) which is called the Heart of the Dolomites. After a short hike up and down we reach the starting point of the via ferrata Bocchette Centrali. The Centrali trail is one of the most beautiful and famous ones in the Alps. The characteristic airy and narrow ledges are leading us to the Bocchetta of Campanile Basso and give us gigantic views onto the famous pillar of Campanile Basso which is the goal of many rock climbers. We have to master exposed paths which are only partially equipped with iron cables. Some parts are not equipped at all and on or way up we have to manage easy rock climbing parts. In early summer some of the channels and iron ropes on the Bocchette di Brenta are still covered with snow and ice thus making the traverse on the via ferrata more difficult. In this case the use of ice-axe and rope is necessary. Having handled the most difficult parts, we are then hiking on well equipped ledges and climb some more iron ladders before we reach Bocca degli Armi and the small Vedretta degli Sfulmini (glacier). Around noontime the descend over the glacier is usually easy as the sun has softened the snow by then and after a short hike we will reach Rifugio Alimonta (2.580 m). After our lunch break at the Rifugio we start descending to Vallesinella on easy mountain trails. Walking time: ca. 7/8 hrs. (depending on the fitness of the participants and weather conditions). - End of our three day trip !
Icicles on the Bocchette centraliat the end of July 2007
1st day - We meet in Madonna di Campiglio (or in the vicinity) from where we drive to the starting point in Vallesinella (1.513 m) where we can park our car. From here we climb up a steep mountain trail passing by Rifugio Casinei and following up to the Rifugio Tuckett (2.270 m). As we are spending our first night here, it is convenient to deposit some of our belongings at the mountain lodge, things which are not necessary to be taken on today's trip. After a light lunch break we can start our ascent to the Bocca di Tuckett (2.648 m) over a snow slope which in the end of season is even icy. Sometimes we might have to put on our crampons to facilitate the climb up. Once reached Bocca di Tuckett we turn North and partially proceed on many iron ladders of via ferrata Benini (initial part). After a short break on a plateau we descend along the many narrow and exposed paths of the Sentiero Dallagiacoma towards Rifugio Tuckett where we are spending our first night - walking time: about 6/7 hours from Vallesinella, including rests and slow pace (depending on the fitness of the participants and weather conditions).
2nd day - Start in the morning from Rifugio Tuckett crossing narrow mountain paths some of which are equipped with iron ropes leading us to the starting point of via ferrata Sentiero Sosat (we could proceed on Bochette Alte, but here more mountaineering experience and the use of crampons is necessary). The route Sosat is easy and scenic with stunning views over the entire Adamello Glacier Park. As the route has been renovated just recently, the only difficulty which used to be the famous vertical ladder of 30 metres, the longest of the mountains Group, is now no longer in use and has been replaced by iron pegs on the side of the ladder. Anyway our mountain guides have the possibility to belay the participants on the rope. After about a 5/6 hours walk, we reach the Rifugio Alimonta - Second overnight stay.
3rd day - Departure from Rifugio Alimonta: We ascent Vedretta (small glacier above the Rifugio Alimonta - sometimes with crampons) to the Bocchetta degli Armi. Here begins the via ferrata Bocchette centrali which the most famous and popular of the Group. At the beginning there is a series of short but vertical ladders and we cross beautiful and comfortable ledges. Furthermore we are continuing to cross through a channel which is often covered by snow and later down to the famous pillar "Campanile basso" and continue horizontally on the ledges which run along the Val Brenta to the Bocca. Here we are in the heart of the Brenta Dolomites, enjoying the landscape, we reach the Rifugio Pedrotti alla Tosa in about 10 minutes. - Third overnight - Time of the trip: about 5/6 hours. Important note: the route Bocchette Centrali is sometimes not equipped with cable and we have to climb belayed on the rope.
4th day - From Rifugio Pedrotti we shortly pass the "Sentiero Palmieri" and we climb up to the gigantic rock pillar of Cima Tosa until the we reach the chimney which signs the starting point of "Via normale alla cima Tosa". Later, after a two hours walk, it is convenient to take a short rest on a very panoramic shoulder "a balcony over the Alps". Here begins our next route called "Sentiero Brentari". In the beginning we proceed on horizontal ledges and later downhill, with a little complex climb, to the Vedretta d' Ambiez (the longest permanent glacier in the Group). At the end of the via ferrata, wearing crampons, we descend along the Vedretta d' Ambiez up to Rifugio Agostini - Fourth overnight stay - Duration of the trip: about 6 hours.
5th day - From rifugio Agostini we climb up with crampons towards the glacier of Vedretta d' Ambiez until we meet the route called "Sentiero dell' Ideale". At first it is leading us to the Bocca d' Ambiez and then down on the "Sentiero Martinazzi". The path which is sometimes exposed and complex, is leading us below the biggest Wall: the "Crozzon" and later on an easier path to Rifugio Brentei (possibility of spaghetti and beer). From Rifugio Brentei we descent to car park of Rifugio Vallesinella, on an easy path through the forest, in about two hours. End of our five day trip. The total duration from Rifugio Agostini to Rifugio Vallesinella ranges from 6 to 8 hours, depending on environmental and conditions of the participants.
Whenever you want, provided during the week (no week-end) and with reservations 30 days before the date of departure (We have to book the mountain lodge).
How many participants:
Minimum three, maximum four, possibility with same skills and mountaineering experience.
EU 595,00 per person for the full 5 day trip - EU 360,00 per person for the 3 day trip
The price includes the rental of technical gear. Excluding: accommodation, food and drinks in the mountain lodges (calculate 45 EU per person per day, if you do not drink too much), excluded fares for cableways or other personal extras.
What to bring with you:
All the technical gear is being provided by our Mountaineering School Arco (helmet, harness, crampons, rope, etc.). You just need to bring a pair of solid mountaineering boots.
Regarding the remaining mountaineering equipment such as clothing, we will provide you with a list after the reservation.
How to book or request further information: only by e-mail at least thirty days before the start of the trip.
The route "Castiglioni" steep, exposed, and ... fantastic !!!
Often we are receiving requests from individual guests who would like to attend a course or
a trip with just 2 people, with only their partner or a friend and without other participants. We are happy to
fulfill the expectations and special requests from people who have specific date requests or certain requirements
regarding their trip in the Brenta Dolomites on the vie ferrate of the Bocchette.
This proposal is also dedicated to people who due to business reasons or certain dates of school holidays are not able to match their needs with our calendar program dates of our trips in the Alps.
During a customized individual via ferrata trip on the Bocchette, our mountain guide is able to transmit profound knowledge and to dedicate completely to your own requirements and capacities.
The rate of the trip does not include accommodation in the mountain lodges. Included in the trip is the rent of all technical gear such as helmet, harness, set, rope and carabiner material. We also provide for the booking of the mountain lodges. The dates and program of the 3 day or 5 day trips on the vie ferrate Bocchette in the Brenta Dolomites can be agreed upon between the customers and mountain guides (according to availability).
Rates for trip with 2 participants only: 3-day trip Bocchette del Brenta: EUR 495,00 per person; for 5-day trip: EUR 825 per person
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